Our older brothers, the Kogi tribe
Colombia, 2023 August
The Kogi tribe lives in the jungle of the Sierra Nevada mountain range near the Caribbean Sea. They consider themselves the guardians of the center of the world, the Cristóbal Colón peak, the highest peak in the range and in Colombia as well. They see thus temselves as older brothers and follow with deep sorrow what the rest of the humanity, the younger brothers do with the planet. Most of them live in remote areas where only those part of their tribe can enter. However, recently they opened some of their communities for outsiders, but only trough operators they approve can bring in groups. This provides the right boundaries that help them to preserve their traditions and identity. Community members strive for balance in their openness.
I visited one of these open villages, Mulkwakungui in August 2023. I had the opportunity to have a glimpse into their everyday life and philosophy embodied in it.
The infinite jungle of the Sierra Nevada
A family with their house
Tradition and technology. One of the most important exports, the side bag, the so-called mochila is made of the fibres of the fique plant (see left) that remain after the fleshy part of the plant which belongs to the a group of maguey plants, has been removed.
A girl sews a mochila. The mochila represents the feminine knowledge and the Mother Nature, the creator of all for the Kogi. Each family has its own pattern. Girls sew these bags from an early age, but when they get married they adopt the pattern of their new family.
Kogi Indian girls and women sew the mochilas together in the community space of the village. The dyeing materials are obtained by the various Kogi communities from trade between themselves, where they always exchange on a 1 to 1 rate.
The backwall of the school. There is a boarding school in the village which welcomes children from other Kogi communities as well.
Two pupils with their books and notebooks. teaching is bilingual, both in Kogi and Spanish.
Coca The coca is a sacred plant for many indigenous communities in the region. In Colombia only indigenous communities are allowed to grow it. Within the Kogis, only women can touch and thus harvest them.
Mariano Nolavita, the former religious leader (in Kogi language: mamo) of the Xeviaka village who moved here to teach the kids their traditons. He gave up forever his presitigous title. On the photo he is chewing coca leaves mixed lime produced from crushed sea-shells. This material is contained in his poporo which is the smybol of masculinity. The peculiar item helps Kogi men to connect with their feelings and thoughts.
Identic houses of Mulkwakungui